Friday, October 29, 2010

Leaving on a jet plane

We just booked plane tickets for our first international tiyul — we're heading to Amsterdam for Hannukah! Ben has visited several times but I have never been. So far, we've made reservations at a fancypants restaurant in a restored hothouse and contacted a progressive synagogue about their "kabalat sjabat" services. We've also learned from a friend living in nearby Leiden that we'll be in the Netherlands for the biggest holiday of the year: Sinterklaas, where apparently men dressed as Santa Claus are followed by cronies in blackface who hand out candy to children. Any suggestions about what also to do, see, or eat while we're there?

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Public space in Tel Aviv

Without a real weekend, it might be hard for us to get down to Tel Aviv very often. But seeing the new port public space, which just won a major European landscape award, might be the incentive we need.

[Images by Iwan Baan]

Monday, October 25, 2010

Not all a moonscape

I passed all of these plants on my 20-minute walk from our apartment to meet Ben's class in the Old City today.


Sunday, October 17, 2010

Shabbat #1: Alone and with friends

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We spent our first Shabbat evening in Jerusalem all alone.

One of the things we're most looking forward to here is spending Shabbatot with Ben's classmates, which we can't do easily in New York because we live in Brooklyn. But last night was exactly as it should have been. After a long week of marrying, traveling, and getting adjusted, we were craving the downtime that Shabbat would bring, and we didn't have any energy left to share.

On Friday morning, we joined thousands of other Jerusalemites at the shuk to buy fruit, vegetables, halva, and — in our case especially — basic household goods that we were missing, such as a knife. Then three friends brought a home-cooked meal to our apartment. We lit candles at 4:28 p.m. and forced ourselves to wait until the crack of 6 p.m. to cut into our challah, quiche, salad, asparagus, and chocolate cookies. By 7:30 we were asleep.

What we lacked in social interactions on Friday night we more than made up for on Shabbat morning. Up early, we decided to walk down to Emek Refaim, the main drag of the German Colony, for services at Kedem, an egalitarian minyan. Populated mostly by rabbinical school students and other Americans in Jerusalem for short spells, Kedem felt a lot like stepping into Altshul, or onto the Upper West Side. In the future, we'll try to visit synagogues unlike those we frequent at home, but davening at Kedem made for a comfortable way to ease into Shabbat in Jerusalem this week.

Afterwards we headed to a Shabbat lunch hosted in our honor by two friends, a couple who were also married in North Carolina (but before we knew them). We closed our week of sheva berachot around a large table packed with new neighbors, munching until havdalah on a huge spread of salads and a Yerushalmi kugel (made with caramelized oil and black pepper) — a perfect way to end a turbulent first week of marriage.